Last month, an acquaintancerecommended a small new restaurant in downtown Harrison, and my first experience was so good that I’ve returned a number of times.
By Arthur Stampleman
Last month, an acquaintancerecommended a small new restaurant in downtown Harrison, and my first experience was so good that I’ve returned a number of times. The restaurant is 273 Kitchen, at the southeast corner of Harrison and Halstead avenues. While the muted modern decor is not exciting, the out-of-the-ordinary menu and the terrific service are, and the bistro has attracted a following in just a few short months.
Proprietor Constantine Kalandranis describes the menu as “daily changing Mediterranean. We use local ingredients and small plates to enhance the evolution of what cuisine is becoming.” He adds, “We want our guests to have the ability to enjoy a fresh variety of ingredients and preparations of very simple dishes that change by the time they return.” Menus vary according to farmers, local docks, and seasonal allowances.
The menu presents patrons with a dozen choices in all three courses and a fine wine list. In my half-dozen visits, I enjoyed the mezze platter of Mediterranean dips and fresh shucked oysters as first courses; and local watermelon salad and homemade ricotta dumplings with duck confit, baby leeks, and tomatoes as second courses. Every main dish I tried was excellent, but my top three to date are the roasted king salmon, the Hudson Valley duck breast, and the 8-ounce Wagyu burger. Save room for dessert, the Mediterranean brownie with halvah and spiced nuts is out of this world.
The first and second courses generally run from $9 to $12 and the main course $17 to $23. All three courses and dessert can be had for $45.
A Loire Valley Pouilly-Fumé (2014) hit the mark on my most recent visit, as did a rosé on a previous occasion. A glass of wine ranges from $11 to $16, bottles from $24 to $89.
On a recent night, my guest and I found the noise level difficult to talk over, and we would have preferred putting the sauce on the oysters we ordered, rather than having the waiter do so. My companion had the crab salad and she said she would have preferred more meat and less dressing.
The service is attentive and well paced. The principals include two CIA-trained operatives — not the clandestine kind — Kalandranis and the Chef de Cuisine. All of the staff is experienced and professional.
The 273 Kitchen team have two other restaurants in Westchester – 8 North Broadway, a Mediterranean restaurant in N
yack, and 251 Lex, a Mediterranean raw bar & grill in Mount Kisco.
To make a reservation, call 723-3333. It’s easy to remember the location: Kitchen 273 is at 273 Halstead Avenue. Open every evening for dinner starting at 6. Plans are afoot to open for lunch.
