GREAT ESCAPES: Block Island
Between summer jobs, early college classes and high school fall sports, the family vacation, that week or two in August when we used to get away, fell off the map this year. A mini getaway, not too far from home, was the only hope.
By Georgetta L. Morque
Between summer jobs, early college classes and high school fall sports, the family vacation, that week or two in August when we used to get away, fell off the map this year. A mini getaway, not too far from home, was the only hope.
Block Island, a quick ferry ride from New London, offering great beaches, biking, and hiking, fit the bill. We had been there on a daytrip 20 years ago, but this would be our first overnight there as a family. It turned out we were in good company; we stumbled upon five other Rye families during our four-day visit.
Accommodations for five were scarce in high season without much advance planning, but we secured an apartment operated by the 1661 Inn & Hotel Manisses, two historic inns near Old Harbor. Included was a breakfast buffet featuring an enormous whole blue fish, carefully filleted and cut into serving sizes, omelets made-to-order, baked ham, fresh fruit, homemade muffins, and more. With such a spread, sleeping in was out of the question. I didn’t realize that unlimited mimosas were also included, which explained the crowds.
Like other islands, the best way to get around is by foot, bike, or moped. Since Block Island is small, around 7,000 acres, you can explore the area in a few days. Cars, which usually sport surfboards or kayaks on the roof, are in the minority.
Upon arrival, we took a vigorous walk up to Mohegan Bluffs, named after a 16th century tribal battle, which offer incredible views all the way to Montauk and a beautiful beach accessed by climbing down more than 100 steps and traversing a steep and rocky path. There, the warm sand felt inviting and the rolling waves, refreshing. Creative beach bathers spread wet black sand over their bodies to rejuvenate their skin — no need for a spa — and budding artists stacked rocks in a way that transformed the water’s edge into a sculpture garden framed by the sea.
Biking brought us to other sandy beaches, lighthouses, and more scenic vistas. For some reason, I didn’t remember hills on my previous visit. And did I mention the steep climb up from the beach at Mohegan Bluffs? Yet even after such workouts, there was still time and some energy to explore the seaside town – the fudge shop, boutiques, art galleries, restaurants, and gift stores in Old Harbor. There’s even a Rags with a porch sale!
Abrams Farm, near the Hotel Manisses, houses an unusual collection of animals that live together harmoniously, including pairs of alpacas, camels, kangaroos, llamas and emus, a yak, a gigantic tortoise that eats tons of salad greens, and a zedonk, a cross breed of zebra and donkey. Next door is a working mill, where the animals’ soft fur is turned into wool.
We didn’t get to the banana boats and some of the other water sports offerings. There are so many reasons to go back, and stay a bit longer on our next trip.