From its saucy name to its distinctive menu, Badass Bagels, which opened at 12 Purchase Street on Jan. 2, isn’t your father’s bagel shop.
Created during the pandemic by foodie entrepreneur Jennifer Balin, this business makes bagels that are 100 percent wild yeast sourdough concoctions (Balin calls her process “farm to bagel”).
That the new eatery sold out of its signature bagels on opening day was clearly the result of word of mouth and social media buzz, because the store had no outdoor sign.
Why? When Balin applied to the Board of Architectural Review in November to put up an outdoor sign, board members responded that the name Badass Bagels was profane, according to meeting minutes. Balin subsequently agreed to withdraw her application.
Rye residents Lauren and Adam Paterno both sent the board letters objecting to a sign.
“It is not appropriate to post curse words on the signage, especially given the number of children who would see it,” wrote Lauren Paterno. “We are a city who takes pride in strong morals and values and language like this is in poor taste and sets a poor example for our children.”
“Frankly, I am not sure where such signage would ever be appropriate,” wrote Adam Paterno. “But a block from the Rye Free Reading Room and a series of nursery schools and in the heart of our town’s downtown area is hardly the place.”
Balin declined to comment on the controversy. She was much more comfortable talking about the handcrafted fare she serves. “This is not fast food,” said Balin. “This is slow bagels. We’re not a deli that also sells soda and potato chips.”
Balin said her favorite type of customer at her current Armonk and Norwalk, Conn., locations comes by to pick up a half dozen bagels, which are available in 10 flavors, including Himalayan blue poppy, pumpernickel caraway everything and, for the purist, plain; spreads such as hot honey pistachio and smokey black garlic, and perhaps some house-cured gravlax to savor for a few days at home.
Or they order one of her gourmet sandwiches like the Lickety Lox, which includes a choice of spread, gravlax, tomato, pickled red onion, dill, fried capers, radish and a lemon wedge, a cup of coffee made from single-origin, fair-trade sourced “Badass Beans,” and perhaps a baked treat, like a toffee chocolate chip cookie.
Most diners will have to take out their meals, which Balin calls “good clean food,” since the Rye location with its striking all-black interior has only a few small tables. That limited seating formula has worked well at her stores, she said. She also has significant mail order, farmers market, and event catering businesses.