By Adriana Krstic
As backyards turn lush with colorful blooms, barbecue grills are prepped and dusted for the warm season of casual gatherings and celebrations.
Few drinks capture the spirit of the warmer months like a chilled glass of rosé. With its beautiful pink hue and wide range of flavors, rosé has earned the reputation of the ultimate summer beverage. Refreshing, versatile and food-friendly, rosé quickly gained popularity in the U.S. for its ability to bridge the gap between red and white wine.
But the ubiquitous Provence rosés face some serious competition from our own state’s excellent producers on Long Island and in the Finger Lakes. They are also given a run for their money by vintners from coastal California, the hills of Tuscany, and even the high-altitude valleys of Argentina.
Rosé wine, underestimated and often dismissed as overly sweet or poor quality, has undergone a renaissance over the last two decades. It has come a long way from the days of our mom’s white zinfandels. Today, rosé is one of the most dynamic and expressive categories in the global wine industry.
If you are not a fan of rosé, you may want to take a second look. Rosé embodies a remarkable diversity of styles, grape varieties, and winemaking philosophies. Its global excellence is not only a reflection of changing consumer tastes but also of centuries-old traditions being refined with modern technique and innovation.
What gives rosé its gorgeous pink color? Rosé is not defined by a single grape or region, but rather by its method of production. It can be made from grapes like Grenache, Syrah (Shiraz), Cinsault, and Mourvèdre.
Rosé’s pink hue can range from the blush, pale pink, almost copper-like tone of a Provençal rosé to the vibrant deep salmon of a Tavel from the Rhône Valley. Rosé wines are actually made from red (black) skinned grapes. The desired color is achieved primarily through limited skin contact with the extracted grape juice, allowing winemakers to decide the level of pigment and tannin. The objective is to create balance and structure without overwhelming the freshness that defines great rosé.
There are three primary methods of production:
- Maceration: Red grapes are crushed and left in contact with the skins from two to 24 hours. The juice is then separated and fermented like white wine (without the red skins).
- Saigneè method: Some juice is “bled off” early in the red wine-making process. That light colored juice is then fermented separately as a rosé wine.
- Blending: A small amount of red wine is added to white wine. It is generally discouraged or restricted for quality wines (with an exception of the region of Champagne).
Rosé has different qualities depending on the region where it’s produced. Provençal rosés are crisp with flavors of wild strawberry, melon, citrus, and herbs like basil, thyme and rosemary. Fresh seafood, salads, grilled chicken and turkey burgers would be a delicious addition to these afternoon sippers.
The Loire Valley produces floral, structured, aromatic rosés from Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, while the famous Rhone Valley offers a full body, age-worthy juice that can easily stand up to a variety of grilled meats and creamy sauces.
Tavel is an appellation dedicated entirely to rosé production with robust wines defying the stereotype that rosés are meant to be consumed immediately. With so much structure and body, Tavel wines would be a perfect accompaniment to a grill master’s summer feast. Ernest Hemingway considered Tavel rosés his favorite and they were enjoyed by French kings and popes before him.
Garnacha (Grenache) and Tempranillo are used in Spain and Italian rosatos are vinified from Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Sangiovese grapes. These wines offer bold, ripe fruit flavors, savory herbal notes and often reflect the style of the regional cuisine. If you love a plate of fresh basil pesto raviolis, pizza, or Spanish tapas, do not think twice about this pairing.
If you want to sample a different style of rosé, seek out wines from South Africa made from Pinotage, the unique grape variety offering fruity, smoky, earthy flavors. If you prefer a lighter, zesty, refreshing style of wines, head to tiny Austria and enjoy their Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch rosé, produced in organic, biodynamic, family owned small vineyards. Austrian best pink wines come from the region of Burgenland and frequently offer a fantastic quality to price ratio.
While the wine store’s shelves will be filled with Hampton Water, Whispering Angel, and other familiar labels, don’t hesitate to ask for an alternative bottle from a smaller producer. Continue to explore rosé’s nuance and artistry through its many elegant expressions.
As the days grow longer and the sun shines brighter, a chilled glass of rosé might be your newfavorite discovery.
Sante!
Adriana Krstic is CMS certified sommelier and AweSommwine consultant.
