About 250 years ago, life in Rye was shaped by the land and sea around it.
People filled their tables by farming, fishing, and hunting, creating meals of what they could grow, catch, or raise nearby. There was no Whole Foods — just what nature and hard work provided, which coincidentally is the full-circle moment we now find ourselves in.
While we may not be growing crops in our backyards, (although vegetable gardens are making a comeback) we flood the farmer’s market behind Chase Bank on Sunday mornings to load up on fresh produce, bread, meat and dairy.
Rye’s settlers grew corn, wheat, rye, and oats. Onions, cabbage, carrots, and turnips were staples in their gardens. Hunting and fishing added variety: you could find venison, wild turkey, cod, striped bass, and shellfish like clams and oysters on the menu. Local farms provided milk, butter, and cheese. People dined on eggs and the apples and pears that grew on local trees and wild berries in summer.
People preserved food for winter by smoking, salting, pickling, or drying it. That allowed them to enjoy some flavors all year round, even when fresh food was scarce.
American Cookery, written in 1796 by Amelia Simmons, is the first known cookbook written by an American. Simmons presented her cookbook as “a treatise calculated for the improvement of the rising generation of females in America, the Lady of fashion and fortune will not be displeased, if many hints are suggested for the more general and universal knowledge of those females in this country, who by the loss of their parents, or other unfortunate circumstances, are reduced to the necessity of going into families in the line of domestics, or taking refuge with their friends or relations.” In other words, it was the first effort to provide practical, easy to understand recipes using ingredients readily available in America.
In chapter 1, How to choose Flesh, Simmons noted that “the large stall-fed ox beef is the best; dent it with your finger and it will immediately rise again, if old, the dent will remain.” It’s a tip still used today! She explained that “of almost every species of animals, birds and fishes, the female is the tenderest, the richest flavour’d and among poultry the soonest fattened. Mutton, grass-fed, is good two or three years old. Lamb, if under six months is rich.” I was amazed to see the modern buzzword “grass-fed” used in that context.
However, not all recipes have stood the test of time. On page 21 you learn how to dress a turtle; on page 23 how to dress a calf’s head. The most interesting might be tongue pie: One pound tongue, one pound apple, one-third pound of sugar, one-quarter pound of butter, one pint of wine, one pound raisins or currants, half ounce cinnamon and mace and bake. I wonder how that would go over with the kids of 2026.
Colonial Rye residents probably enjoyed a breakfast of cornbread or rye bread with butter, cheese, or fresh eggs. Lunch and dinner often meant stews made with garden veggies and salted meat or fresh fish. Soups were common, along with pies and puddings sweetened with honey or maple syrup when available.
One classic dish of the time: cornmeal johnnycakes. Easy to make and filling, these little cakes were a staple because they used local cornmeal and didn’t take much time or fuel to cook. It is debated how they came to be called Johnnycakes. One theory is it comes from “journey cake.” Early American travelers and pioneers carried the sturdy patties on long journeys because they traveled well and did not spoil. Another theory is that it originated from “Shawnee cake,” which is what Indigenous Americans called bread, and European settlers simply mispronounced it as “johnnycakes.”
Like a pancake, johnnycakes are cooked on a griddle, but they are made of cornmeal, not flour.
A staple on the Rye menu 250 years ago, they were satisfying, warming, and easy to make. They were so versatile, they were eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Looking back at what Rye residents ate 250 years ago is to understand that meals were simple, made to nourish hardworking bodies, and tied to the seasons. It’s interesting to see how our food habits have changed, but also how they are now harkening back to simple concepts. Some dishes have the power to bring us back to those early roots.
Cornmeal Johnnycakes: A Simple Colonial Dish from Rye
Here’s how they made them:
Ingredients:
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup water (or milk if you had it)
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter or lard (for cooking)
Optional: a teaspoon of honey or maple syrup for a touch of sweetness
Instructions:
1. Mix the cornmeal, salt, and water (or milk) together in a bowl until you have a thick batter.
2. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add a bit of butter or lard to grease the pan.
3. Spoon some batter onto the skillet, flattening each dollop into a small round cake.
4. Cook for about 3 to 4 minutes on one side until it turns golden brown.
5. Flip the cake and cook the other side just as long.
6. Once cooked, serve warm. You could eat them plain or spread with butter and a drizzle of honey or maple syrup.
